Surfing

I live a block and a half from the beach. I decided to re-take up surfing. By this I mean that I owned a surfboard in Jr. high & high school and would occasionally go out. I never was very good and one day I wiped out pretty bad and when I came up there was a shadow over my head. Someone had grabbed my board just before it would have hit me on top of my head. I got out of the water thinking that I had narrowly escaped death by drowning (which I have heard it very colorful way to go) and traded my surfboard for a boogie board. Nice and soft.

Anyway, I went surfing a couple years ago with eduardo and another friend with a borrowed board and had fun.

I bought what is called a soft top surfboard a couple of months ago and have been going out fairly often. It's been fun. Today was really beautiful. The sun was shinning, the water was clear and sparlkly. I'm really enjoying being out there and not taking myself too seriously; riding the smaller waves and not pushing myself too hard.

It's also nice to walk directly from my place, surf, walk back, shower and be ready for the rest of my day about an hour and a half later. Sweet deal, huh?